Identify the Leaf Yellowing Pattern & Treat Nutrient Deficiency with the Best Fertilizer

Identify the Leaf Yellowing Pattern & Treat Nutrient Deficiency with the Best Fertilizer


Hello Friends! In today’s episode we will try to identify
some common leaf patterns of discoloration and distortion in various micro and macro
nutrient deficiencies and Finally One single universal solution or fertilizer to treat
these problems. Coming up! Before we start displaying the various leaf
patterns, you must understand some basics in order to diagnose this problem of nutrient
deficiencies in plants and start the right treatment to save your plants. Because directly jumping in to adding too
many supplements can burn or kill your plant. Plant nutrients fall into 2 categories: macronutrients
and micronutrients. Macronutrients are those elements that are
needed in relatively large amounts. They include the three major ones – nitrogen,
phosphorous, potassium, that’s NPK and also sulfur, calcium and magnesium. Micronutrients are those elements that plants
need in very small amounts, like iron, boron, manganese, zinc, copper and molybdenum. Most of the times, except in container gardening,
these nutrients may be present in the soil. So before adding supplements you have to diagnose
your condition by checking these 3 problems or factors:
1. The problem may be with the roots – not
able to absorb or uptake these nutrients. This can be due to root disease or improper
watering. Because these nutrients are taken up by the
roots only in the presence of moisture. 2. Soil PH may not be right. Most plants need a PH of around 6.0 for proper
absorption of nutrients by the roots. Having this little PH meter will certainly
help you rectify this problem. You can find related videos on altering soil
ph by using natural methods from links in description. 3. Pest attacks which can sometimes resemble
the patterns of nutrient deficiencies, especially the sucking pests like aphids. Make sure you thoroughly examine your plants. Now having said that, lets jump into identifying
the various leaf patterns of discoloration and distortion and diagnose this problem. But always Keep in mind that each plant variety
is different and may display different symptoms. And also the damaged leaves may not come back
to normal after treatment but the new leaves will certainly come out healthy and lush after
treatment. Well, Now let’s start with:
1. Nitrogen Deficiency: you will notice complete
yellowing of the older leaves generally at the bottom of plants. The younger leaves are often healthy and green. This is because, nitrogen is a mobile nutrient
which moves up from the lower parts of the plant to the growing ends as a compensatory
mechanism and hence the older leaves donate nitrogen and show complete yellowing including
the veins and the entire leaf surface. The solution to this is simply adding a good
nitrogen rich compost like decomposed cow dung or horse dung. But before adding, please rule out the problems
of improper watering and soil PH that we already discussed. 2. Calcium Deficiency: Here the new leaves are
affected and may show yellowing, distortion and even burnt tips due to necrosis or death
of the tip tissues. Blossom End Rot (BER) seen in tomatoes and
squashes is the best example of this. We have discussed this problem and treatment
in detail in my previous episode. 3. Magnesium Deficiency: Magnesium is also a
mobile nutrient and hence The older leaves first turn yellow at the edges and surface
– called interveinal chlorosis, meaning yellowing between the leaf veins. The veins as you can see, stay green, giving
the leaf a marbled appearance. Remember, Magnesium is the central most atom
in the chlorophyll molecule which imparts green colour to leaf. Foliar Spraying or watering the plant with
1 teaspoon Epsom salt per litre of water will give great results. 4. Iron Deficiency: Iron is an immobile nutrient
and hence cannot be carried upto the younger leaves from older leaves for compensation. So the leaf yellowing is first evident at
the tips or the younger leaves. The pattern is similar to magnesium – the
interveinal yellowing. This is actually a common pattern and most
often due to alkaline soil ph which prevents proper absorption of iron by the roots. Hence its also called as lime induced chlorosis. The treatment for this is actually rectifying
the soil ph to around 6, if its alkaline. Another method to bypass this problem is foliar
spray of a micronutrient solution or compost tea like how we have shown in our previous
episodes. Related videos can be found in description
links below. 5. Phosphorous and Potassium Deficiencies: These
are very much similar and plants show stunted growth plus leaf chlorosis like leaves turning
darker or purplish. But this is difficult to identify and depends
on the type of plant. Isolated Potassium deficiency usually exhibits
yellowing starting at the tip or the margin of the leaf with the center being still green. 6. Last but not the least, you must be aware
of a condition called YELLOW VEIN CHLOROSIS. Here only the leaf veins turn yellow while
the rest of the leaf shows normal green colour. This usually happens in winter or the dormancy
period due to reduced nitrogen uptake by the roots from the soil in low temperatures. Well, Now the Universal Treatment Solutions
for all these problems: You have two options: First one is Making
The Universal Cocktail Fertilizer mix – you can check this link circled here to learn
how to make this organic mixed fertilizer rich in all nutrients. And the Second option is Vermicompost – which
is rich is almost all micronutrients. Adding a handful every 15 days will keep your
plants healthy and high yielding. Please hit a thumbs up if you found this episode
helpful. Do comment below with your feedback and queries
and consider subscribing if you are new to this channel. Happy Gardening!

11 thoughts on “Identify the Leaf Yellowing Pattern & Treat Nutrient Deficiency with the Best Fertilizer”

  1. Can a bigger clay pot dry out faster then a smaller clay pot ? cos if been watering my Pothos now roughly every 2,5 weeks since i put it into bigger clay pot then before from 26 cm diameter to 38cm diameter, same soil mix watering till it comes out of the bottom previous 2 times i watered 4 liters or less this week 3,5 before small amount came out of the bottom, am i overwatering slightly this week cos only been able to pour thru 3,5 liters this time ?, pot breathes a lot for sure cos there was a lot of white mold on it last time.
    The pothos that was in it had way to many cuttings which was reason i repotted it into 38cm diameter so i could put in more cuttings again, i don't think i am overwatering i know pothos drip water from leaf tips at night has't done this for least 1 week now with growth having slowed down along with it.
    Another pothos i had in plastic container super rootbound i remember watering it once a week during winter but after i repotted it ended up only having to water it every 2 month's altho i repotted this other pothos in plastic container, which one of the reasons i went with clay pots for my other pothos.

  2. Had 1 leaf on my ficus microcarpa ginseng that has green spots and yellowing which is according to a chart manganese shortage should i feed it tho in november hard to feed it now since does't need water right now.

  3. Thanks you SO MUCH my baby trees are going to do even better now that i have found your channel bless you dear Brother from sherry elizabeth subbed!!!

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